Do You Need Calming?

The People's Skincare Newsletter, Vol. 11, No. 1 March 2018

Inside this issue:

Do You Need Calming?

Epionce seldom comes out with a new product so it’s exciting when they finally do. The Renewal Calming Cream has been formulated to “optimize and restore hydration to the skin barrier to relieve the most stubborn symptoms associated with eczema and dry skin”. Eczema has been described as “the itch that rashes” and is characterized by three key symptoms: itching, redness, and scaling/dryness.

An independent clinical study of the new Calming Cream determined that it reduced itching by 81% in three weeks, scaling and dryness was improved by 66%, redness lessened by 54%, and hydration improved in 80% of subjects by day 22. Like all Epionce products, medicinal botanical ingredients were used including: colloidal oatmeal, meadow foam, safflower, rosa canine, apple extract, onion and white water lily. Colloidal oatmeal provides relief with its anti-itch and anti-inflammatory effects on eczema while meadow foam and safflower are sources of lineolic acids for barrier repair activity.

The Renewal Calming Cream can be used on the face as well as the body. It’s non-comedogenic so no worries about clogging pores. It’s definitely a creamy consistency but has a drier feel as opposed to the Extreme Barrier Cream or the Medical Barrier Cream, both of which feel “richer”. I don’t have eczema but have been using the new Calming Cream on my cuticles and hands and really like the consistency; yes it’s a cream but not super creamy….if that makes sense. I love its hydrating qualities.

Now available, the Renewal Calming Cream comes in an 8 oz. tube and costs $49.

Facial Exercises Study

Many years ago, I studied, practiced and even taught facial exercises to tone facial muscles as an anti-aging adjunct to good skincare. I found that after awhile I didn’t want to take the time to continue doing the exercises. My classmates felt the same….it took a lot of time and discipline for subtle improvement. Still...

Earlier this year, JAMA Dermatology published the results of a small study of middle-aged women whose appearance improved by doing facial exercises. The study was conducted with 16 women aged 40-65 years through Northwestern University’s Dept. of Dermatology. The researchers recruited healthy women with some sun damage and an interest in facial exercises. After two 90 minute training sessions with a certified instructor, the participants were asked to perform a 30 minute facial exercise session daily for 8 weeks at home, followed by sessions every other day during weeks 9-20.

Two blinded physicians used validated assessment scales to compare photographs of the participants taken at the beginning and end of the 20 weeks. Improvement was noted in both upper-cheek and lower-cheek fullness. In addition, the physicians’ estimates of the women’s ages decreased from an average of 51 to an average of 49 years after the 20 week study was concluded.

This study was limited by several factors including its small sample size, the lack of a control group and a self-selected population that may have been especially motivated to follow the exercise routine. However, “the results suggest that the causes for improvements in appearance as a result of the exercises may be exercise-actuated hypertrophy of cheek and other muscles”.

The authors did not indicate a particular exercise program but a quick check of Amazon under Facial Exercises shows fourteen pages of book titles on the topic. Clearly there’s an audience for facial toning self-care. Check it out and let me know of your results! Me, I use a hand-held device called NuFace for toning. If I use it consistently, it does the work of facial toning much faster than facial exercises.

Why You Should Use Sunscreens Indoors

Did you know that you there’s a real risk of UV exposure from lamps and other indoor light sources that we use daily? Well, here’s another thing to worry about.

Yes, chronic low-dose exposures to UV light such as those associated with indoor lighting may be triggers of conditions such as melasma, lupus, and skin cancers. Melasma, for example, can be triggered by heat or UV light; chronic exposure to ambient light may darken the skin, necessitating daily UV protection in both indoor and outdoor settings.

Studies show that cumulative, chronic doses of indoor lighting may be of clinical significance. Fluorescent lighting has been shown to increase lifetime UV exposure by 3% based on the distance the lamp is from the skin. If the lamp is close—particularly desk lamps, bed lamps and overhead lamps—the light and hear emitted can worsen photoexacterbated dermatitis. LEDs generate a light from a semiconductor material that converts blue light into white light; LEDs do not emit UV rays and are a safer light source for the skin.

What about light that passes through glass? Unlike UVB rays (burning rays), UVA (aging rays) pass through glass and affect the skin. The percentage of UVA rays that pass through glass depends on the type of glass and the coating on the glass. There are 3 types of window glass: clear, reflective and tinted. Clear glass allows 75% of UVA through while reflective and tinted glass allow only 25% to 50% to pass through.

Unfortunately most residential and commercial buildings do not have UVA protection. Using blinds, shades and tinted glass as well as increasing the distance from windows and doors are the best methods of protection. What about cars? In most cars, windshield is made of laminated glass which blocks all UVB and about 50% of UVA rays. However side and rear windows are often clear glass with no protection. Tinting the side windows is highly encouraged for those with photosensitivity. Perhaps you’ve seen the photo of a truck driver, not wearing sunscreen, whose face on the left side (untinted side window) was visibly sun-damaged and wrinkled while his right side was “normal" for his age.

Bottom line: the risk of indoor UV is commonly overlooked resulting in daily cumulative exposure that can cause chronic skin damage and early signs of photoaging. The simple solution, aside from avoiding proximity to light sources, is to wear SPF daily, even indoors.

Odds and Ends

From the annual report of the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery:

Social Media Makes Lasting Impact on Industry – Becomes Cultural Force, Not Fad

WASHINGTON, DC, – January 29, 2018 – The American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery (AAFPRS), the world’s largest association of facial plastic surgeons, annual survey shows that, like it or not, the selfie and its impact on aesthetics is here to stay and continues to have a huge effect on how we perceive and project ourselves – in front of the camera and off.

The annual survey explores the top trends in facial plastic surgery and compares year-over-year results.


For better or worse, “selfie-awareness” is more than a fad. In 2017, 55 percent of facial plastic surgeons saw patients who want to look better in selfies in their practices (up 13 percent from 2016). First identified by AAFPRS members more than three years ago in the annual survey, the trend continues to gain steam and transform the facial plastic surgery industry.

“For a few years, AAFPRS members have been at the forefront of this trend,” says AAFPRS President William H. Truswell, M.D. “More and more of our patients are using social media as a forum to gain a sense of solidarity when under-going a major, potentially life-changing procedure. Consumers are only a swipe away from finding love and a new look, and this movement is only going to get stronger.”

And it’s not just enhanced selfies that are trending. From public healing diaries to A-list and Insta-celebs baring all on their social media accounts, nothing is off limits when it comes to sharing one’s enhancements and aesthetic edits. From lip injections to chin implants to ear lobe reduction, 2017 showed us that there is no shame in sharing your road to self-confidence!


While surgery is no longer a hush-hush topic, 2017 made the phrases “anti-aging” and ”you look good for your age” taboo. The tables are turning on what it means to look and feel great, with a focus on health, vitality and empowerment rather than a number.

This “pre-juvenation” shift defies being defined by one’s age and is breeding a generation of uber-educated consumers who are taking control of the aging process.

“This emerging segment is knowledgeable about high tech skincare and sun prevention and starts with facial injectables before they turn thirty,” says Dr. Truswell. “As more Millennials come of age and gain disposable income for aesthetic treatments, our members have seen steady growth in the demand for cosmetic procedures.”

In fact, the average number of procedures performed by AAFPRS members has increased 25 percent since 2012. More than half (56 percent) of AAFPRS members saw an increase in cosmetic surgery or injectables with patients under age 30 last year and over four-fifths of treatments in 2017 were cosmetic non-surgical procedures.


A full 57 percent of facial plastic surgeons reported patients’ desire to stay relevant and competitive at work as a major driver in the decision to have a cosmetic treatment. Advancements in non-invasive and combination technologies are allowing men and women to refresh their appearance with little to no downtime taking them away from the office.

Some of the most requested procedures were tailored to these specific lifestyle concerns. Eyelid procedures to look less tired were reported as a rising trend by 73 percent of members along with combined non-surgical procedures by 72 percent of members.

“By combining non-surgical choices such as novel lasers, hybrid lasers and microneedling systems, we are able to treat a wide range of facial rejuvenation concerns in the span of one appointment,” says Dr. Truswell. “These procedures all boast very little downtime, meaning patients with demanding careers can be back in the office without skipping a beat.”


Predictably, BOTOX® (Allergan), along with Dysport® (Galderma) and Xeomin® (Merz), remain the most popular minimally invasive procedures for both women and men, followed by fillers and skin treatments.

For surgical trends, rhinoplasty leads the way year after year (performed by 97 percent of surgeons in 2017) followed by blepharoplasty (95 percent) and facelifts (88 percent). The most popular procedure overall, Botox was ranked first for women followed by rhinoplasty. However, for men it was reversed with rhinoplasty as the top procedure followed by Botox.

Botox and hair transplants both notably increased in the past five years, with the number of Botox procedures in the survey increasing by 33 percent from 2012 to 2017. The number of hair transplants in the sample jumped by more than 538 percent in that time span. Non-invasive fat reduction and Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) injections are newer procedures that facial plastic surgeons are also seeing requested more often.

“PRP is the next frontier, and facial plastic surgeons are eager for more data to illustrate what it can do for skin rejuvenation and how it can be used in combination with lasers, energy based devices, and microneedling and even hair restoration.” says Dr. Truswell.

Note to self: when taking a selfie, do not stand on the edge of the Grand Canyon

  • Ordering Epionce….it’s easy to contact me directly for orders (I’ll mail or deliver) or you can order on the Products page of my website which directly links you to They ship from Boise, are fast, and don’t charge for postage.
  • Travel plans: I will be away from St. George for a few days in late March visiting Santa Fe, NM for a Road Scholar program on Spies and the Manhattan Project with a day-long visit to Los Alamos Labs; in May I travel to an Epionce advanced education seminar in Nashville and will spend about 10 days exploring Tennessee and Kentucky; still in the planning stages of a road trip to Asheville, NC for hiking on the Appalachian trail plus plenty of distillery visits from Colorado to Kentucky, Kansas to Texas. An esthetician’s got to have a hobby, right?!

Wishing you a beautiful and healthy Spring!


Peels to the People