Peels To The People: Spring Cleaning and Peels' 10 Year Anniversary

The People's Skincare Newsletter, Vol. 12, No. 1 April 2019

Inside this issue:

Peels To The People: Spring Cleaning and Peels' 10 Year Anniversary

I can NOT believe it’s almost May….the past four months since my last newsletter have flown by and now it’s time to catch up! Epionce is having a sale, we’ll learn about exfoliation in other countries, how coffee consumption reduces rosacea, latest trends in facial plastic surgery and finally, a few odds and ends to round things out.

Ten years ago in May 2009 I began my own business and named it Peels To The People. The plastic surgeon I worked for in Portland had to cut back on staff due to the recession so I scrambled to start a home-based practice and was really delighted that Epionce let me carry their medical skincare line at a time when they were (and still are) only selling to physicians and medical-spas. I can’t thank my clients enough for their willingness to travel to North Portland for their skincare services, to think it wasn’t weird to have a facial in my living room, and to stick with me through my move to St. George, Utah. For a few years I commuted between Portland and Utah but since 2016, Southern Utah has been my base of operation.

I’ve tried to keep in touch through these newsletters and am always delighted to hear from clients who’ve read them and comment on something they’ve found interesting, quirky or relevant. I subscribe to a number of dermatology websites and podcasts to keep in touch with the field and still attend occasional trade shows. I make it a practice to attend at least one Epionce advanced training for the in-depth science behind this remarkable skincare line. As a practicing esthetician, it’s important to know fact from fiction in the world of “new” miracle ingredients and product lines. My motto continues to be Keep it Simple so that you can be consistent in your routines without undue fuss or stress on your skin.

May I say how much I appreciate your support, trust, and friendship. Some of you have been clients since the 90s, some of you from just this year. However long we’ve known each other, it’s been a pleasure and a privilege working with you. Onward and upward!

Epionce Sale on Intense Defense Serum & Intensive Nourishing Cream

Every spring Epionce offers a Mother’s Day Special and this year it’s 20% off on their Intense Defense Serum and Intensive Nourishing Cream. I know many of you cherish these two wonderful anti-aging products so this is a great time to purchase. I have both items in stock or you can order directly from Epionce using my code 20090528. The sale is on through the end of May…..if you wish to order from me however, please do so by May 20th as I’m leaving on a road trip and won’t be available to fill orders until mid-June.

Winter Exfoliation

Sure, the article says winter but exfoliation can be a year-around process. This article, written by dermatologists Dr. Wesley and Dr. Talakoub and published online on MDDermatology from Jan 28, 2019, focuses on Winter Exfoliation: A Multicultural Approach. I’m paraphrasing from them:

“Exfoliation can be an important method for improving skin hydration by aiding skin cell turnover, removing surface flaky skin, and enhancing penetration of moisturizers and active ingredients applied afterward." Methods vary in cultures around the globe.

“Ancient Egypt: Egyptians are credited with the first exfoliation techniques. Mechanical exfoliation was accomplished via pumice stones as well as alabaster particles, and scrubs made from sand or plants such as aloe vera. The first use of chemical exfoliation using sour milk containing lactic acid originated in Egypt”. Think Cleopatra.

“Indigenous people of the Americas and Caribbean: Sea salt is commonly used, particularly fine-grained salt rather than coarse sea salt. While the effect of topical salt on skin microbes is unknown, cutaneous sodium storage has been found to strengthen the antimicrobial barrier function and boost macrophage host defense”.

“Japan: Shaving, particularly facial shaving, is frequently done among men and women as a method for skin rejuvenation. In the U.S., facial shaving among women has evolved to a method called “derma planing” which involves dry shaving (including fine hairs) as well as top layers of stratum corneum”. I do derma planing and clients love it.

“France: It is not certain whether “gommage” originated in France but in French it means to erase. A paste is applied to the skin and allowed to dry slightly while gentle enzymes digest dead skin cells on the surface then it is rubbed off. Gommage was popular with facials before stronger chemical exfoliants like alpha-hydroxy acids became widely available”.

World Peace Through Exfoliation!

Coffee Intake Reduces Risk of Rosacea

The December 2018 issue of JAMA Dermatology published a study that concluded there is a significant inverse association between risk of rosacea and increased coffee intake.

Authors Suyun Li, MD,, measured data from 82,737 women in the Nurses’ Health Study II (NHS), a prospective cohort established in 1989 with follow-up conducted biennially between 1991 and 2005, in order to determine the association between the risk of rosacea and caffeine intake. Data on coffee, tea, soda and chocolate consumption were collected every 4 years during follow-up. Information on history of clinician-diagnosed rosacea and year of diagnosis was collected in 2005.

They identified 4,945 cases of rosacea. Participants who drank four cups of caffeinated coffee per day were less likely to develop rosacea compared with participants who did not drink coffee. There was no association found for decaf or intake of other caffeinated food sources including tea, soda and chocolate.

The authors hypothesize that caffeine’s vasodilation and immunosuppressant effects may potentially decrease the risk of rosacea, noting that further studies are needed to further explain the mechanism of action of this association.

Trends in Facial Plastic Surgery

Results of the American Academy of Facial and Reconstructive Surgery 2018 trends in facial plastic surgery survey revealed that Millennials (ages 22-37) are driving the growing demand for cosmetic procedures. The average number of surgical procedures has almost doubled since 2013 (up 47%) with a 22% increase in Botox injections compared to 2013.

AAFPRS members noted that there is more emphasis on early care or “pre-juvenation”, which is bringing patients in their 20s and 30s into aesthetic practices and that technology—both in office and homeware devices—are popular among this demographic.

In 2018, 72% of facial plastic surgeons saw an increase in cosmetic surgery or injectable treatments in patients under age 30. This is a significant increase from 2017 when 58% of members noted this influx of younger patients. “Our younger patients are controlling the aging process and taking prevention seriously”, says Phillip Langsdon, MD, president of AAFPRS.

Other trends include the desire for a more natural look. While 97% of AAFPRS members feel celebrities have an influence on facial plastic surgery, there has been a shift away from overly enhanced looks like the infamous Kylie pout of 2016. A natural-looking outcome is paramount for patients, with 41% stating a fear of looking unnatural as their top concern when considering cosmetic enhancements.

Subtle, confidence-boosting treatments like injectables (Botox & fillers), lasers, peels and micro needling are in especially high demand as are treatments that combine two or three of these noninvasive options in one visit.

For surgical trends, rhinoplasty remains the most requested facial plastic surgery followed by revision surgery and eye lists.

Odds and Ends

* In May, I’m attending an Epionce Advanced Clinical Training in Newport Beach. These are always interesting, intellectually demanding and extremely well-organized events. This time I’m meeting my good esthetician friend from Portland, Teko Talvy, and looking forward to catching up with her. She’s been in the business for over 40 years and has a busy, busy practice. I hope some of my Portland clients have found their way to her beautiful and serene Pearl District clinic.

* I continue my interest in all things bourbon and am enjoying (if not occasionally terrified by) teaching bourbon education at Harmon’s Cooking School in St. George. This just out: Harmon’s Cooking School was named “Best in State” for the second year in a row and the bourbon education angle was cited as a major contributing factor. If you’re in St George in early July, I’m doing a tribute to veterans who’ve been pivotal in the distilling business….think George Washington to contemporary craft distillers…with a wonderful BBQ menu from Harmon’s chefs.

* In late May I’m driving back to Kentucky again (I think it’s the third time in two years) to attend an event called the Kentucky Bourbon Affair featuring half-day workshops with bourbon educators followed by evening dinners at distilleries throughout Louisville. This is a total geek-fest and I can’t wait!

I hope you all are healthy, happy and looking forward to summer! Thanks again for following along this little journey of skincare.